Like a Virgin



Beginner: Yogi



"If you carry the child within you... That's what works."

- Barry Cunningham, Publisher of Chicken House Children's Book

Last week, a friend of mine (I'm re-considering this term, as we speak) gave me shit for not being a "good surfer". 



I was confused by this word, "good" ; and in complete honesty, hurt by his intention. 



Beginner: Fitness model



I trekked all the way out to Far Rockaway, taking 7 transfers in 104 degree heat just for mediocre waves that were 2 feet.  It was a journey.  Like all journeys, I met an incredible cast of characters from the train conductor who talked about his surf experience while helping me get Miss Charlene (my board) to the train; to the nursing student who always wanted to learn how to surf but his inability to swim was holding him back; to Jillian, a badass chica who learned how to surf on her 40th birthday and was getting married to her fiance of 15 years that weekend when the monumental same-sex marriage bill was be instated.

And that was just the ride TO the Rockaways.




Beginner: Tea Fields Hiker

When I finally arrived, I was warmly embraced by a community of locals who allowed me to catch a ride on their turf.  We exchanged friendly chats about our boards, howled, "PARTY WAVE!" when we all caught it; and hooted when we watched someone else go for it.  I was pretty stoked at myself for being able to paddle out, sit on my board and even catch a few.  I hadn't gone all summer and just went out twice last year so you bet I was high-five-ing myself for this.  Plus. an old mate from way back, just bought a board; and I forgot how much fun it is to just be in the ocean with one person you know. 


Then it hit me, I'm not the type of surfer who's out there wanting to show off some tricks.  I don't necessarily want to get "good".  I'm a beginner; and with that title, I realized I still have this naive innocence about the whole thing.  I go out when waves are 2 feet.  I go out when there's no power behind the swells.  I go out when the winds coming for the West.  I go out when I'm wearing the wrong bikini bottom and I end up mooning the entire East coast.  



Beginner: Thrill Seeker

I go out to laugh, laugh and laugh. 

I go out because it makes me happy.

I go out because it's the most absurd thing to do.



Beginner (unlicensed): Hell's Angel



In the past 5 years, I've gone through some major difficult moments in my life.  When I look back, I can't believe I've actually survived.  I can't believe it so much that I can't stop laughing about the whole thing.   I cry, I still get emotional but humility is one of the few things in life that can make me laugh and cry at the same time. 

It's impossible to go through Darkness without it bitch-slapping you in the face; and making you realize (as cliche as it may sound), Life, really is, too short to take it all that seriously. 

It's sad when we limit ourselves from new experiences because of our unrelenting fear of looking like a goofball. 

I hear it all the time:

Beginner: Ocean lover



"Oh, I'd love to travel but I can't right now."  "Yeah, I want to dance but not right now."  "I've always wanted to learn how to play the guitar but I don't have the time."

Sure, I have my moments of can'ts, don'ts and won'ts:

"I'm too old to be wearing low-riders."  "I'm too old to be dating a 19 year old." 



Beginner: Cave Woman

I'm gonna stand by these can'ts, don'ts and won'ts because I can't breathe properly in skinny jeans; and the thought of kickin' it with someone born in the 90's sounds... Slightly illegal. 

But...

I'm not too damn old to be doing a lot of things; and people like George, an 88 year-old farmer I met in Kauai,who ziplined (for the 2nd time!) through the mountains and waterfalls of Hawaii, all the while, hitting on our 45 year-old guide, reminds me it's important to remember to live fearlessly like a kid... Or at the very least, a horny 15-year old.

Either way, I'm guaranteed to have some good fun.

On a side note:  This "friend" doesn't even surf.  Doesn't even travel.  Doesn't do much but get high, get arrested and talk shit.  Lately, I've been heavy into the concept of Intent.  Clearly, his intent was to get a rise (as he always likes to do).  In our 20's, this was funny.  We're now in our 30's; and I've noticed that his shit talking ways just doesn't get by anymore.  No one laughs; and it's actually uncomfortable.  I've been feeling for his situation as of lately; but I can't keep being positive for someone who continues to be negative.  Any kid knows that's totally f-ed up.

Beginner's Luck I found this place...